In one of my classes recently, a student timidly raised his
hand.
“Professor, what was ‘brunch?’”
“Ah yes,” I replied, wisely stroking my beard. “Brunch. Twixt
breakfast and lunch there was brunch. How well I remember it. Brunch, you see,
was a way people got drunk on Sunday morning, and it was considered perfectly
respectable.”
“How could that be?” asked the student.
“The world was different back then. People didn’t worry so
much.”
“But how did it work?”
“Well, on Friday nights you went out and got schnockered.
You spent Saturday morning and afternoon dealing with your hangover as best you
could. There were all sorts of folk remedies. Coca-Cola with vanilla ice cream.
Spicy chili with raw onions. Junk food. Black coffee. Alka-Seltzer. Worcestershire
with a raw egg. Aspirin, of course. But the most historically significant folk
remedy proved to be tomato juice.”
“Why was that?”
“Because,” I answered patiently, “a group of government scientists were
working on a cure for the hangover, and one day someone cried, ‘Eureka,’ which
means, ‘I have found it.’ Tomato juice, you see, is an ingredient in the Bloody
Mary. And sure enough, if you drank a Bloody Mary on top of a hangover, the
hangover went away. Like magic. It was believed that the Worcestershire combined with the
fresh-ground pepper was what did it. Though some claimed it was the celery
stalk. In fact, two or three Blood Marys helped even more.”
“What does all this have to do with
brunch?”
“Patience is a virtue, Young Person. I
am about to explain. One way or another, you got yourself ready for Saturday
night. Friday night was sort of like winter break at school, while Saturday
night was summer vacation, so to speak. By Sunday morning you were in no shape
to deal with anything. So you got together with some friends or whomever and
went to brunch.”
“And this was in the late morning?”
“Usually. Supposedly. But it could be
mid-Sunday morning. In fact, it was not uncommon for people to pass out before
noon on Sunday. But sometimes, too, it happened in early afternoon, by the
time everyone got themselves together.”
“Would you eat anything?”
“Oh, of course. It was a meal, after
all. People ordered fancy omelets with themes, like the Mexican Omelet, the Texas
Omelet, or the Tex-Mex Omelet.”
“Were there egg white omelets?”
“Certainly not. People had it rough
back then. You had to work hard just to keep a roof over your head. No one even
heard of egg white omelets. You might as well ask if there were music videos.”
“So besides the omelets what was the
big deal?”
“The omelets came with home fries and
maybe refried beans with lots of hot sauce. And of course, toast. You never
ordered white bread toast, as it wasn’t as nutritious as whole grain. Oh, and I
almost forgot. To drink, you asked for ice water—probably a pitcher for the
table—and a Bloody Mary. As was already explained, a second or third Bloody Mary
may have been in order. Usually someone had to ‘break the ice,’ so to speak.
Like maybe the first person ordered orange juice, and then the second person
would also order orange juice, and then say, ‘No, wait a second—I think I’ll
try a bloody Mary.’ Then the first person would say, ‘You know, that sounds
good. Please change my orange juice to a Bloody Mary.’”
“Screwdrivers are made with orange
juice. Did anyone ever order one of those instead?”
“Not often. Something about the Bloody
Mary seemed more breakfast-like. Screwdrivers were considered uncouth for first
thing in the morning or afternoon or whenever it was. They implied one had a
drinking problem.”
“Did you ever drink anything else?”
“Sometimes just to be different people might order champagne cocktails, which also seemed brunch-like somehow.”
“Sometimes just to be different people might order champagne cocktails, which also seemed brunch-like somehow.”
“Did they help with hangovers, too?”
“Indeed. Again, it was said to be the Worcestershire
that did it. Since champagne cocktails were lighter, you needed four
or five of them. Or even six.”
“How long did brunch last?”
“Usually a few hours. By the time it
was over, everyone was ready to go home and nap for the rest of the day.”
“Did people wake up with hangovers?”
“Yes, on Sunday evening people awoke
feeling terrible. But then it was considered proper to drink something else.
Like straight whiskey with a beer chaser.”
“What about Monday morning?”
“What about it? People just plowed their way through it as best they
could. It was considered a character building experience to have to go to work
after a three-day drinking binge. Or as it was sometimes called, a lost
weekend. You kids anymore—you don’t know how hard we had it back then. Xanax
and Prozac hadn’t even been invented.”
“‘Character building’—what does that
mean?”
“Becoming a stronger person.”
“Huh. You don’t say. Were there cars?”
“Yes, and also TV. But there was no
cable, so you only got to pick from three main channels, plus some local
networks.”
“How did people survive?”
“It was hard, Young Person. It was
hard.”